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Types of Rappel rigs

justsomedude

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2014
Messages
2,514
Location
Nashville, TN
ATC Sport
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"Tubular Devices" are the most commonly used and are cheap. The "Sport model" only has one slot (Single rope). I have the Guide model which lets you use double rope if you want to. These are built for thicker ropes

Figure 8 style Descenders: Petzl Pirana, Micro 8, Rescue 8, Sterling ATS.

IMPORTANT DETAIL!
When you extend your rappel (more about that below) with a sling directly girth hitched to a harness, your device will be tuned to the side. NO FUN. Adding a carabiner to your harness or using a PAS chain type daisy can keep it straight (the extra carabiner is easiest to get right).
With a TUBULAR style like the ATC, this isn't an issue as you want the anchor side to be on the right (for right handed)

I am liking the Sterling ATS.
Carabiner is seated VERY firmly (needs a round biner) and you attach rope without having to unclip the device. It works on thinner rope and has more friction than the Petzl Pirana.

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These work with thinner ropes and can be easier to tie off to temporarily pause to tear down gear. They also have more variables than the above ATC Tubular style descenders (More to screw up! PRACTICE).

Here is a comparison of a Sterling ATS and an ATC
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EXTEND RAPPEL
If you aren't connected to a bridge (Evo or Guido for instance) you want to extend your connection to the rappel device. Usually done with a short sling from your harness. 12" is usually good.

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AUTOBLOCK
I HIGHLY recommend Sterling Hollow Block
http://www.backcountry.com/sterlinghollow-block-6.8mm-x-13.5

It is a rectangular rope that compresses well and doesn't roll like regular Prusik rope. $10 well spent
It makes it EASY to control your descent and to pause as you descend to tear down gear.
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A "French Prusik" is easier to rig and is easier to move on the rope than a standard Prusik.
http://climber.co.uk/skills/skills/how-to-prusik.html
For multi tasking it can easily be a Klemheist http://www.animatedknots.com/klemheist/#ScrollPoint or standard Prusik and be used in other parts of your rig while not on Rappel.
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ROPE

Thicker static line is easiest to rappel, less likely to get twisted and easy to grip.
Bluewater Assault line is a standard but it is 11mm. Not small but SAFE.

The Shorty Spools of Edelrid 10mm Static from www.treestuff.com are a great value at less than 50 cents a foot.

I have some 9mm Bluewater black rope that works well and is lightweight but it is officially "accessory cord".

I also have a 30' Yale Bandit Tether that is excellent if you don't mind more bulk.
The Yale Bandit is a little 'spongy' with a Sterling ATS. Works better with a Tubular ATC
Semi Static line isn't a big issue on short rappel and you get more friction.

"Canyon Rope" is very tough and is generally 8mm or 9mm. Almost half the weight of Yale Bandit but not officially approved for use with a Ropeman.

This Imlay looks exceptionally good and
You could dye it.
http://www.store.canyoneeringusa.co...n-Fire-Rope-8-3mm/p/10914142/category=2490784

Some people are using a separate rappel rope from their tether. So you can have a large soft rope that works with a Ropeman, and then a smaller rope for descent.

I like the concept of 'less parts' so I am trying to just use a long tether for my rappel setup.
 

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I have the ATC Sport. Works great!


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ATC Sport "Tubular Devices" are the most commonly used and are cheap. The "Sport model" only has one slot (Single rope). I have the Guide model which lets you use double rope if you want to. These are built for thicker ropes
I think this device and the Cardiac Arrester both ended up with very unfortunate shapes... Twice as bad if you have both on your gear loop together.
 
In all seriousness I've been using my pirana for over two years now for on season and off season rapel. I've used it to rappel with myself and my 75lb lab with no problems. The only problem I've had is on long raps with yale bandit it tends to put some twists in the rope which usually come out as soon as I pull the rope from the tree. This shouldn't be an issue with static line. I will use an auto block from time to time it just depends. Usually on a long rappel or if I have any inkling that I may have to take my hands off the rope without time to wrap it off. But I've gotten pretty good at switching break hand when I need to.
 
I am very comfortable with a 8 descender with lock ears, we use them for rescue all the time. Nice to be able to lock off anytime with a simple wrap. I also use racks but they can be kinda big for a hunting setup, pretty bomb proof though once you get the hang of em.


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I am very comfortable with a 8 descender with lock ears, we use them for rescue all the time. Nice to be able to lock off anytime with a simple wrap. I also use racks but they can be kinda big for a hunting setup, pretty bomb proof though once you get the hang of em.


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Is this an acceptable method?

 
Yeah that will work fine, this video shows a very safe way of locking off. Granted it's our rescue method, so we double everything.
 
Wow! That's a shiny new rope! Bet you could see that bad boys from a mile out! ;)

Arborplex!!

arerhodes, is that what you're using for your work line? What saddle are you using there if you don't mind me asking?
 
Gotchya, I thought maybe you were going old school tree worker with the Arborplex, steel biners, and what I'd guess is a Weaver buttstrap saddle (that's why I asked :)).
 
Mechanical Assisted braking devices like grigri or safehuard/lifeguard. Changes in available rope (lots are using 9mm htp)
I actually have an old thread on that. I tried the GriGri2 and have Sterling HTP 9mm.
I didn't like the GriGri for ascending as much as the Ropeman. One handed adjustments with slack tether and it fell down a lot.
 
Ah...here it is.
ATC Pilot. It requires certain carabiner shapes but it has it's advantages.
You wouldn't bomb off of a cliff with it but it works great for short descent for me.

https://saddlehunter.com/community/index.php?threads/atc-pilot.4293/

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