Custom Tree Strap

[redsquirrel]

I am a big fan of the way the tree saddle web strap worked and after they went out of business and my straps started to wear down, I tried to duplicate it. I am very happy with how it came out and I think it actually works for me better than the original because it is lighter and packs up tighter. I am continuing to use this strap with my aero hunter because I like how the web strap works better than the rope strap, and it is also lighter than the rope strap.

As always if you do this take great care to test at ground level and ensure your equipment is safe, you do this at your own risk.

I ordered my parts from http://www.paragear.com/.

Parts list:
Webbing, 4-yards- http://www.paragear.com/skydiving/10000044/W9920/
Black v-ring bar- http://www.paragear.com/skydiving/10000173/H327BK/
Black long snap- http://www.paragear.com/skydiving/10000175/H405BK/

In order to secure the webbing I got this tool called the Speedy stitcher sewing awl. This thing is awesome and I have been using it for a lot of custom stuff. It uses a thick waxed polyester thread. I can't find the exact specs again but I believe it was rated for about 55 lbs per stitch.

I covered as much as the metal as I could in stealth strips, http://www.stealthoutdoors.com/product-category/stealth-strips/, which I am doing for almost all my metal parts now. The v-ring bar has a shiny surface which is the only thing I am not happy about, but I have just been covering it up.

Let me know what you guys think and if you have any thoughts for improvements. Here are some pictures of the setup.

I wrap up the tag end and tight it off so it doesn't dangle too much. I just let it hang between my legs.

 

[drew13]

That's awesome. You mention that it's lighter than the original TS strap - is it because of the weight of the webbing, the hardware, or both?

Just curious because I was thinking of putting the TS hardware on a new strap. I, too, think it is heavier than it needs to be...

Thanks,
Drew


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[redsquirrel]

That's awesome. You mention that it's lighter than the original TS strap - is it because of the weight of the webbing, the hardware, or both?

Just curious because I was thinking of putting the TS hardware on a new strap. I, too, think it is heavier than it needs to be...

Thanks,
Drew


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It may be both, but it is mostly due to the webbing. This new webbing that I am using is a little thinner and lighter. It is rated for 6000 pounds i believe and it seems rock solid.

I also made a lineman's belt out of one of the cam buckles from the ameristep straps, but I want to make it more similar to the trophyline lineman's belt, just with smaller lighter webbing. I just need to figure out the right hardware.

 

[Matty]

Very nice. I tried a rope setup but went back to the original TrophyLine strap. This custom strap looks like a nice replacement.

As for a lighter linemans belt, have you guys considered using lonewolf treestand straps?

Very light, quick adjust and cheap. I put carabiners on both ends so I can go around branches easily. This also allows me to remove it entirely once I'm in hunting position or use it as a redundant safety catch.

So many great ideas thrown around on here, one of the things I love about using the saddle is adapting, modifying, improvising. I'm cheap and poor though, so I can't do everything you guys do. lol....

 

[redsquirrel]

I like the straps way better than rope.

I haven't used the lone wolf strap, but I just started using one of the ameristep strap on step straps as my lineman's belt. I did some custom work on it and have it attached on the left side to my loop just like the tree saddle came, and the other side has the carabiner. I really like 3 things about it: how light it is, how small it packs up, and how easy it is to adjust with one hand with the cam buckle. I will take a pic and post it when I get a chance. The thing I don't like about it is how the cam buckle swings around below the carabiner when I'm hooking on. I am thinking of getting some more webbing like for my tree strap and a piece of hardware just like the tree saddle linemans belt had and making one. That should be similar in weight to my current version and much lighter than the original tree saddle one.

We all like tinkering with new ideas here. I figure that with a place to share all of our ideas people can save money by only using the ideas that actually work

 

[bowhunterchuck]

I LOVE THIS SIGHT ! THE ONLY PROBLEM IS I WANT TO TRY ALL OF THESE IDEAS AND IT IS HUNTING SEASON ......WHERE TO FIND THE TIME ? I WILL BE READY NEXT YEAR BUT DOES IT REALLY EVER END ?

 

[fawnzy]

Never. The oldest guy in my group is 78. He's mean, ornery and still tough as nails. (Some say he sleeps with his rifle)

We have placed plaques in the woods at the favourite stands of the old timers that have passed to keep them in memory.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[redsquirrel]

No Chuck, it never ends! I have given up most other hobbies because hunting season has turned into a year round hobby! I try to squeeze in-season modifications into my off days, or lunch at work!

And yes, yard work suffers during hunting season!

 

[bowhunterchuck]

IN LAWS ARE COMING FRIDAY.....I HAVE 24 BOXES OF HARDWOOD FLOORING IN MY LIVING ROOM AND THE GRANITE COUNTER TOPS HAVEN'T BEEN INSTALLED AND YOU HAD TO MENTION YARD WORK ! ! ! IF IT WASN'T FOR THE TARGETS IN MY BACK YARD I WOULD HAVE FORGOTTEN ABOUT MOWING ! I WILL FIND A WAY TO GO HUNTING ! THEN THE REST WILL FOLLOW.
bowhunterchuck

 

[John Eberhart]

Here is my hybrid sling/saddle I've used for the past 10 years. Took a while to design it and still have the adjustment to alter drape height.

 

[redsquirrel]

That thing is sweet John! It definitely has the feel of a more compact anderson tree sling!

 

[d_rek]

Here is my hybrid sling/saddle I've used for the past 10 years. Took a while to design it and still have the adjustment to alter drape height.

Thanks for sharing John.

It looks kind of like a traditional treestand harness but without the shoulder straps and a rope bridge.

Couple of questions:

1) How do you attach your lead to the tree? I assume you use a treestrap and thread it through the loop at the end of the lead line?

2) Where do you hookup a linemans belt? What type of linemans belt do you use/prefer?

 

[John Eberhart]

I don't use a linesman belt, just climb up the steps and hook up. I did have one made with small strap loops on each side (similar to the saddle) that I can attach a Trophyline linesman belt if needed, but have never needed it yet. As I age I see myself possibly using it on large diameter trees and that is why I had one made. I do however work out all year just to be able to climb trees with minimal issues.

As a liability disclaimer, I would never suggest anyone replicate my harness system or the way I hook up in trees as it may be detrimental to your health and longevity. My sling/saddle harness or hook up system would never pass TMA for safety and liability insurance issues and therefore would never be marketable and is not recommended to be copied. I'm an idiot that takes chances and if I go out by falling out of a tree, that's my problem and I'm OK with that.

I hook up by draping the lead strap over a Cranford deluxe screw in T, which is screwed in at about hair height. I then put the loop end of the lead strap (lead strap is permanently attached to the harness and the lead has the adjustable drape buckle on it) around a second Cranford midget T which is usually screwed in to the right side of my body (at whatever height and distance from my body it needs to be to be out of the way). Back to step one, the Cranford deluxe T I drape the lead over is screwed deep into the meat of the tree well past the wood threads and at a severe downward angle (about 45 degrees with the T part on the high end) so that the lead always remains pinched into the tree and can't slide outward towards the T end of the T-screw. The Cranford midget T is also screwed deep into the tree and at a slight upward angle because what little tension the lead will have on the midget T will be upward tension. Also on the Cranford deluxe T I cut off the nut and wrap electrical tape over the metal threads that are towards the T end so that the sharp threads don't over time, cut into my lead strap which will be draped over them.

Once set-up, which takes me a minute or two from the time I leave the ground, at any time during a hunt I can adjust my drape within moments to adjust for comfort as I find sitting in the exact same position for extended periods of time becomes uncomfortable.

On properties I have permission I will often drill pilot holes (while initially setting up the tree) and drive in 8 to 10 inch long, 3/8 to 1/2 inch hardened bolts (also at the same angles as the 2 T's). This will save lots of money and save time during hunting set-up.

Again; these are my methods and I don't suggest anyone else replicate them.

 

[d_rek]

I don't use a linesman belt, just climb up the steps and hook up. I did have one made with small strap loops on each side (similar to the saddle) that I can attach a Trophyline linesman belt if needed, but have never needed it yet. As I age I see myself possibly using it on large diameter trees and that is why I had one made. I do however work out all year just to be able to climb trees with minimal issues.

Haha no sweat! I was always perplexed that manufacturers always suggest you attach a linemans belt before ascending. It always seemed to be rather, shall we say, prohibitive to actually climbing a tree. I understand that for liability and legal issues they would tell you to do so. I would guess that most people only use a linemans belt when they are strapping in or setting their treestrap at hunting height.

I'm going to have to give setting a treestep at head height a go. I know a couple of other guys on this site are doing it for similar reason - to prevent slippage/easier to set strap at same height each time. I've had some issues getting both my trophyline strap and my rope strap to stay right where I want it.

 

[fawnzy]

That's a slick set up! I like the drape and hook up idea. I'm messing with a different method.

I'm replacing the anchor strap in this photo with a heavy can strap. It will ascend with me. I'm too chicken to climb without the safety.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[John Eberhart]

d_rec wrote - I'm going to have to give setting a treestep at head height a go. I know a couple of other guys on this site are doing it for similar reason - to prevent slippage/easier to set strap at same height each time. I've had some issues getting both my trophyline strap and my rope strap to stay right where I want it.


The head height hook-up aids dramatically in comfort vs. an arms reach hook-up. The higher you hook-up the more upright your body has to be. The more straight down you are from hook-up, the more upright your upper body has to be and also the lead strap has to be dealt with when drawing your bow on a deer directly to the side as the lead is in the way of your elbow during the drawing process. With a head height hook-up the lead comes to your waist at about a 45 degree angle and when you draw on a deer to the left side (if right handed) your elbow will not come close to the lead as the lead is lower. With the low hook-up your upper body can lean forward as the lead is not in your face as it is with a high hook-up. With the low hook-up you can lean forward onto the lead, wrap your arms around it, and nap if you want. No way with a high hook-up. Also much more comfortable.

Will say this, if in a large tree (with mine there are no diameter restrictions) the lead needs to be a bit higher so you can move farther around the tree and have the necessary lead to do so. When I'm stepping the ring at the top on a large tree I also screw in the steps going around the tree about an inch to an inch and a half higher per step. When going around a large tree the lead wraps as you go and forces your body up and the steps have to adjust for the raise.

 

[1simplemann]

I don't use a linesman belt, just climb up the steps and hook up. I did have one made with small strap loops on each side (similar to the saddle) that I can attach a Trophyline linesman belt if needed, but have never needed it yet. As I age I see myself possibly using it on large diameter trees and that is why I had one made. I do however work out all year just to be able to climb trees with minimal issues.

As a liability disclaimer, I would never suggest anyone replicate my harness system or the way I hook up in trees as it may be detrimental to your health and longevity. My sling/saddle harness or hook up system would never pass TMA for safety and liability insurance issues and therefore would never be marketable and is not recommended to be copied. I'm an idiot that takes chances and if I go out by falling out of a tree, that's my problem and I'm OK with that.

I hook up by draping the lead strap over a Cranford deluxe screw in T, which is screwed in at about hair height. I then put the loop end of the lead strap (lead strap is permanently attached to the harness and the lead has the adjustable drape buckle on it) around a second Cranford midget T which is usually screwed in to the right side of my body (at whatever height and distance from my body it needs to be to be out of the way). Back to step one, the Cranford deluxe T I drape the lead over is screwed deep into the meat of the tree well past the wood threads and at a severe downward angle (about 45 degrees with the T part on the high end) so that the lead always remains pinched into the tree and can't slide outward towards the T end of the T-screw. The Cranford midget T is also screwed deep into the tree and at a slight upward angle because what little tension the lead will have on the midget T will be upward tension. Also on the Cranford deluxe T I cut off the nut and wrap electrical tape over the metal threads that are towards the T end so that the sharp threads don't over time, cut into my lead strap which will be draped over them.

Once set-up, which takes me a minute or two from the time I leave the ground, at any time during a hunt I can adjust my drape within moments to adjust for comfort as I find sitting in the exact same position for extended periods of time becomes uncomfortable.

On properties I have permission I will often drill pilot holes (while initially setting up the tree) and drive in 8 to 10 inch long, 3/8 to 1/2 inch hardened bolts (also at the same angles as the 2 T's). This will save lots of money and save time during hunting set-up.

Again; these are my methods and I don't suggest anyone else replicate them.

John, You mentioned that your T is at hair height. I remember you also mentioning that the other day on the phone. Is that while you standing upright on the step next to the tree or while your actually sitting in the saddle. I just spent my 1st hr in my new Aero. adjusting this and that, just plain old experimenting. I set my bridge at 24" like you mentioned and to me the best postion for the tree strap was at head height while I was standing upright. I really like how you can pivot around the tree and shoot any direction. this is going to be new weapon in the arsenal.

 

[redsquirrel]

John, You mentioned that your T is at hair height. I remember you also mentioning that the other day on the phone. Is that while you standing upright on the step next to the tree or while your actually sitting in the saddle. I just spent my 1st hr in my new Aero. adjusting this and that, just plain old experimenting. I set my bridge at 24" like you mentioned and to me the best postion for the tree strap was at head height while I was standing upright. I really like how you can pivot around the tree and shoot any direction. this is going to be new weapon in the arsenal.

I usually set me at head height while standing up right when I first get up (make sure you don't poke your eye out with it.. I've almost done that!) I have my bridge set at 24" also. After fooling with different lengths at the beginning of the year I actually cut the excess rope off and took the blakes hitch out of it too.

 

[1simplemann]

John, You mentioned that your T is at hair height. I remember you also mentioning that the other day on the phone. Is that while you standing upright on the step next to the tree or while your actually sitting in the saddle. I just spent my 1st hr in my new Aero. adjusting this and that, just plain old experimenting. I set my bridge at 24" like you mentioned and to me the best postion for the tree strap was at head height while I was standing upright. I really like how you can pivot around the tree and shoot any direction. this is going to be new weapon in the arsenal.

I usually set me at head height while standing up right when I first get up (make sure you don't poke your eye out with it.. I've almost done that!) I have my bridge set at 24" also. After fooling with different lengths at the beginning of the year I actually cut the excess rope off and took the blakes hitch out of it too.

So your committed to to that 24" bridge.

 

[redsquirrel]

Yes. If for some reason I ever want to change I can just create a new one but I found that to be optimal. Any shorter and it pulls the paws in and creates pressure on my hips. Any longer than that and I just wasn't able to get comfortable.