Who has snorted the Fairy Dust?

[NMSbowhunter]

I would think that arrow length would be fairly fixed based on your draw length. So that leaves arrow mass and arrow speed (based on draw weight). You will max out draw weight at some point either through physical strength or the bow's specs. If I have to choose between arrow mass and speed it will be arrow mass every time.

Another thing to consider is that even though you may be able to draw 60 or 65 or 70 pounds in shorts and a tee shirt standing flat footed in the yard practicing this summer, it may be a whole different story this fall when you have been in a tree for 4 hours in 30 degrees and you are presented with a weird shot angle. For example, I can draw 70 pounds if in my backyard but I hunt with 60 and 44 pound draw weight bows. I can draw that 44 pound compound from just about any position I want, and it was plenty to break a buck down last fall with a 585 grain arrow with 23% FOC and a single bevel broadhead. It is also dead quiet with that somewhat heavy arrow.

 

[mschultz373]

so maybe a better question is: how should I determine what course to take? If I shoot an 475gr arrow well, is there any reason to pursue changing DW and arrow weight to push things higher? If I were to go below 250fps, what target arrow weight would I aim for?

Thanks for the help, everyone.

Also, if I may…. I really wanna try to make 100gr Broadheads work because I have 9 unopened Magnus stingers ready for upcoming season that were a wedding gift….

 

[BTaylor]

so maybe a better question is: how should I determine what course to take? If I shoot an 475gr arrow well, is there any reason to pursue changing DW and arrow weight to push things higher? If I were to go below 250fps, what target arrow weight would I aim for?

Thanks for the help, everyone.

Also, if I may…. I really wanna try to make 100gr Broadheads work because I have 9 unopened Magnus stingers ready for upcoming season that were a wedding gift….

475 @ 250 with a fixed head will kill anything you ever decide to hunt in North America.

 

[jsh909]

so maybe a better question is: how should I determine what course to take? If I shoot an 475gr arrow well, is there any reason to pursue changing DW and arrow weight to push things higher?

Nope, that arrow weight with a Magnus out of a well tuned bow will do everything you need it to. Enjoy

 

[NMSbowhunter]

I would be fairly comfortable with 475 and a Magnus head but I would be a little pickier with my shot angles. Good broadside or quartering away should be fine. I've killed quite a few deer with Magnus stinger buzzcuts and had good results.

 

[Weldabeast]

Fairly new offering from grizzstik.....

 

[Weldabeast]

I think I told the story on this thread but maybe not.....I had a major plan b arrow incident this past season... The deer ducked and spun and that arrow entered into the neck 2 or 3 inches below the base if the skull and exited the face. The arrow made a really funny sound at impact and I was pretty upset with myself. Hardly any blood on the arrow. I didn't expect to find the deer at all. Waited an hour, hopped down, found good blood, and found a semi stiff deer less than 40 yards from impact. Sliced all the main cables in the neck and broke the lower jaw in 2 lengthwise.

 

[Weldabeast]

Enter

Exit

 

[mschultz373]

Last question then: is it sufficient for me to use a 75gr screw-in adapter to achieve the 475TAW? I would have to balance the arrow to determine FOC % and such. the other option would be removing the stock 23gr Easton insert and using a 100gr insert?

 

[Weldabeast]

If it were me and I could remove the inserts without damaging anything id swap in the more beefy steel insert to more inprotantly improve structural integrity and the foc improvement is just a bonus

 

[krub6b]

Last question then: is it sufficient for me to use a 75gr screw-in adapter to achieve the 475TAW? I would have to balance the arrow to determine FOC % and such. the other option would be removing the stock 23gr Easton insert and using a 100gr insert?

My preference would be to use 100gr inserts. The 75 grain adapter will increase you FOC more do to increasing the overall length of your arrow and putting the weigh in front of all your carbon, but that could also lead to so spine issues since the weight is farther forward. I would prefer to have the increased bonding area between the shaft and the insert myself.

 

[mschultz373]

can the stock inserts on easton 6.5v carbons be removed safely, then?

 

[NMSbowhunter]

It all boils down to what you want out of an arrow system. A structurally sound, perfectly flying arrow weighing about 650 grains total weight (more FOC the better) tipped with a single bevel, razor sharp broadhead is about the best insurance you can have walking into the woods. Anything shy of that, and you have to start being a little more careful. The further you are from that, the more allowance you will have to accept.

I started with light fast arrows and mechanicals. They worked for the most part. I lost animals but it was early in my bowhunting, and I made some bad hits and also didn't have a lot of information to make decisions with. Looking back now, I should have realized that something was wrong when I was having arrows fail to pass through 90 pound Southern does and many times the arrow was in 3 pieces when I found it. During this time I started adding fixed blade cut on contact heads to my quiver. The turning point was when I had a light weight arrow tipped with a mechanical stop cold on a big buck's shoulder like it hit a 2x6. He ran off and was seen a few weeks later no worse for wear.

I started looking around for a better way and found Dr. Ashby's studies. The next big buck I got a bead on I shot through both shoulders at 12 yards broadside with a 650 grain arrow tipped with a 190 grain Grizzly on a steel broadhead adapter. I broke that buck down. He never took another upright step after that arrow hit him. Both his front legs went out from under him, and he pushed himself on his nose with his hind feet off into a creek where I found him a little bit later. That broadhead cut the off side humorous bone in two. This was a 60 pound bow.

Last year I built a 44 pound Mathews Heli M bow to go along with my 60 pounder. I came up with an arrow that weighs 585 grains, has 23% FOC and shoots perfectly out of both bows. This makes my life simple. I killed one 7 point with that system out of the 60 pound bow which was an unremarkable broadside shot. I killed another 7 pointer with the 44 pound bow with that same arrow with a quartering too through the scapula on the on side and out behind the shoulder on the off side. The buck made it maybe 30 yards and tipped over in sight.

Dropping below 650 grains may come back to bite me, but so far so good. For these smaller Southern deer, I am pretty comfortable. If I go north again for bucks, I'll be carrying 650 grains.

 

[NMSbowhunter]

can the stock inserts on easton 6.5v carbons be removed safely, then?

I would think so. I have removed stock inserts by dropping a drill bit with to blunt end first down the shaft and using it to whip the inserts out. JUst be careful because when they come out they can fly!

 

[kbetts]

Last question then: is it sufficient for me to use a 75gr screw-in adapter to achieve the 475TAW? I would have to balance the arrow to determine FOC % and such. the other option would be removing the stock 23gr Easton insert and using a 100gr insert?

You can find 50 grain brass as well.

 

[krub6b]

can the stock inserts on easton 6.5v carbons be removed safely, then?

I'd email Easton or call your local shop and ask if you have a good one around. I would imagine those are epoxied in and can be removed using the method @NMSbowhunter described, if they use a hot melt or cool melt adhesive then a hot field point screwed into the insert before hand will make them come out with ease. If they are epoxied in there is no guarantee that you wont lose a couple to damage when driving the inserts out, but most people are successful with it

 

[mschultz373]

A structurally sound, perfectly flying arrow weighing about 650 grains total weight (more FOC the better) tipped with a single bevel, razor sharp broadhead is about the best insurance you can have walking into the woods.

with my current bow, I would need to draw 95lbs to shoot 650gr at 250fps!
obviously the answer there is : faster bow, with 70-75lbs draw.
without chasing anything on my bow, a 650gr arrow would be moving 191fps....

 

[kyler1945]

I’ve killed 25+ deer over the last several seasons with 510-525gr arrows. Every angle. Hit just about every bone in a deer body. None of them have stopped me from making two holes.

Razor sharp cut on contact broadheads. Proper or slightly stiff spine. Tuned bow. 200-225gr up front. Arrows short as possible. Back of arrow squared. Front of arrow squared.

The number of deer may be higher, my memory sucks and can’t remember just how far back I gave up on FMJ’s and 600+gr arrows.

 

[NMSbowhunter]

with my current bow, I would need to draw 95lbs to shoot 650gr at 250fps!
obviously the answer there is : faster bow, with 70-75lbs draw.
without chasing anything on my bow, a 650gr arrow would be moving 191fps....

Fast is way overrated in my opinion. Quiet is what is important. A heavy arrow will absorb the energy the bow is giving it, and that energy won't be available to create vibration (noise). I have shot at deer with my longbow off the ground and missed them and they never knew I shot at them. That bow is probably shooting 160 fps with a 700 grain arrow. It is dead quiet. They just stood there until the arrow landed behind them and made a sound.

People who study this estimate that a deer can react four times as fast as a human. If you are 25 yards away and you fire a bow that is shooting 300 fps or a bow that is shooting 150 fps and a deer hears it, that sound is reaching that deer at 1050 fps at sea level. If the deer hears the sound it can react regardless of whether the arrow is going 300 or 150 fps. Even if an arrow could go 600 feet per second the sound reaches the deer twice as fast as the arrow.

Fast helps trajectory right? Inside 25 yards it is a moot point. An inch difference maybe? Who can shoot well enough on live game under hunting conditions to see a difference in 1 inch? I can't for sure.

If the deer doesn't hear the arrow, then it can take its time getting there and the deer will still be there when it arrives.

 

[Blacksmith]

Fast is way overrated in my opinion. Quiet is what is important. A heavy arrow will absorb the energy the bow is giving it, and that energy won't be available to create vibration (noise). I have shot at deer with my longbow off the ground and missed them and they never knew I shot at them. That bow is probably shooting 160 fps with a 700 grain arrow. It is dead quiet. They just stood there until the arrow landed behind them and made a sound.

People who study this estimate that a deer can react four times as fast as a human. If you are 25 yards away and you fire a bow that is shooting 300 fps or a bow that is shooting 150 fps and a deer hears it, that sound is reaching that deer at 1050 fps at sea level. If the deer hears the sound it can react regardless of whether the arrow is going 300 or 150 fps. Even if an arrow could go 600 feet per second the sound reaches the deer twice as fast as the arrow.

Fast helps trajectory right? Inside 25 yards it is a moot point. An inch difference maybe? Who can shoot well enough on live game under hunting conditions to see a difference in 1 inch? I can't for sure.

If the deer doesn't hear the arrow, then it can take its time getting there and the deer will still be there when it arrives.

Very Well Said! Slow and Quiet Always Wins The Race