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Oplux Bridge with Amsteel Prusiks

S

skyjacker

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Location
Oklahoma
I just received my Cruzr. I took a page out Latitude Outdoors book and made this Oplux bridge with 1/8 Amsteel. Initial thoughts and test are ... the Amsteel bites well on the Oplux sheath and I did not see any slippage. I like the idea of Oplux here. It can easily and quickly be replaced. No splicing or burying. I may just replace it every season for the heck of it. Also, dual side adjustability means I can make the center of my bridge at different points. Should wear slower over time.

Quick instructions on how to make it ...

Start with 6 ft of 1/8 Amsteel.
Fold it in half and pinch in the middle.
Measure 20 inches from the pinch and start the locked brummel.
Bury the tag ends.

Makes a 16 inch continuous loop with full burys. Heat shrink is 3/8 and it's just there to prevent the bury ends from peaking out. It's cosmetic and not required.

WARNING: Amsteel has a low melting point. Use the heat shrink at your own risk.

IMG_20200713_091553.jpgIMG_20200713_091530.jpgIMG_20200713_091523.jpgIMG_20200713_091601.jpg
 
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Nice! Is the shrink tube on the back side of the prussik just for wear, or does it provide some of the locking functionality?
 
I put the shrink tube on there to prevent the burys from peaking out. Just cosmetic.
 
Does the amsteel need a full bury to be a prusik? Or will it work without that?
 
bj139 said:
Amsteel melts at 266F. I don't know how the heat shrink might affect it.
Click to expand...

I wrapped it with electrical tape before applying the heat shrink then heated it up. As soon the shrink tightened I stopped applying the heat. But yes, it does melt. I may redo them and just use electrical tape to stop the burys from peaking out. idk. Added a warning to the OP. Thanks for pointing this out.
 
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Mschmeiske said:
Does the amsteel need a full bury to be a prusik? Or will it work without that?
Click to expand...

Latitude Outdoors said they did a full bury on their prusiks so that's what I did. I am assuming the full bury strengthens the Amsteel.
 
Did this today. Can anyone advise if there is any issue having the wrap facing the same direction? OP looks like they alternate. Seems to night just fine at ground level. Don’t want to learn the hard way.


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I just did something similar, except I used Oplux and TRC replaced the Amsteel. One of the big reasons that Amsteel should not be used in most knots is that it melts at a low temperature. The friction inside knots causes it to melt and then the knot slips very rapidly as the two molten surfaces move past each other. The same thing would happen within friction hitches given a sufficient force (not sure how short of a fall would cause this).

Edit: Relevant video describing what is observed when knotted amsteel is under sufficient force, the knot slips so rapidly that it mimicks a snapped rope. In this scenario, I'm unsure that the stopper knot would prevent the hitch from moving off the bridge.

 
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How much TRC did you use one them? 3’ each? More? Thanks

raisins said:
I just did something similar, except I used Oplux and TRC replaced the Amsteel. One of the big reasons that Amsteel should not be used in most knots is that it melts at a low temperature. The friction inside knots causes it to melt and then the knot slips very rapidly as the two molten surfaces move past each other. The same thing would happen within friction hitches given a sufficient force (not sure how short of a fall would cause this).

Edit: Relevant video describing what is observed when knotted amsteel is under sufficient force, the knot slips so rapidly that it mimicks a snapped rope. In this scenario, I'm unsure that the stopper knot would prevent the hitch from moving off the bridge.

Click to expand...
 
I’ve got 2 - 16” continuous loops I made for this application if anyone is interested.


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Mag1 said:
How much TRC did you use one them? 3’ each? More? Thanks
Click to expand...

I didn't measure it. Absolutely no more than 4 feet was used for my one side with TRC. I started with a long piece of TRC and then traced with one end the entire double prusik (having something similar sitting to the side as a model helps). I then joined the end back to the long piece using double fisherman knots. Then I cut (trying not to waste rope). This also prevents having to twist up your rope all funny. (edit: the above is a convoluted way to say that I did not first tie a loop and then do the prusiks, I used the TRC like a shoe lace and finished the loop once my lengths were set and I was happy with everything).

What some won't like about this is that the TRC side takes up like 5 inches under tension and that part of the bridge can't be used during rotation at height. I could've made it tighter with my knot tying, and using single fisherman knots would have helped even more.

I only did the TRC double prusik on one side. The other side is a single prusik made out of Oplux with a figure 8 knot. I basically made a copy of the common Tethrd and Cruzr bridges but using non-amsteel and knotting instead of splicing.
 
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I do not like amsteel for this application. something like maxim 5mm tech (https://www.backcountrygear.com/5-mm-tech-cord-by-the-foot.html) would be much more appropriate. The heat generated by even a small slip of the oplux in a fall could cause a catastrophic failure. At the very least your oplux should be tied to your bridge loops out past your prussiks so that when the amsteel melts, theres something there to catch you.
 
ThereWillBeSpuds said:
I do not like amsteel for this application. something like maxim 5mm tech (https://www.backcountrygear.com/5-mm-tech-cord-by-the-foot.html) would be much more appropriate. The heat generated by even a small slip of the oplux in a fall could cause a catastrophic failure. At the very least your oplux should be tied to your bridge loops out past your prussiks so that when the amsteel melts, theres something there to catch you.
Click to expand...

I disagree. Latitude Outdoors did third party tested and passed all drop test. Needless to say they have their *expletive together and are some smart dudes.

 
Im not watching an hour and 27 minute round table to glean info about destructive testing that they do not mention on their website. Dyneema is not recommended for high friction applications due to its low melting point. a technora or even regular old nylon or poly accessory cord is a safer option for this application. Theres a reason you cant go on wespur and buy ANY dyneema hitch cords.
 
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