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Johns T screw method

kenn1320

kenn1320

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2015
Messages
2,753
John any way we can get more details on your (2) T screw method? I get the first T screw, your putting that at hair height and screwing it in a downward angle of 45 deg. Where are you placing the second T screw? The second one sees a lot less load depending on where you put it. In the event the Main one failed, I would think you would want the second one in close proximity so it doesn't get a jolt from "catching" your falling weight. Any pictures of this in the tree?

While I really like my ropeman1's on my lineman rope and my tree tether, the 7/16" assault line doesn't pack down very well. I'm thinking about going back to the LW strap/buckle for my lineman belt and some form of a strap tether. No doubt nothing packs smaller than strap rolled up. I use a long 36" bridge and short tether(basically my ropeman1 as far up as it will go). I also like how the bridge slides through a carabiner versus strap, so maybe my ideal set up would be a 1ft or less strap with a carabiner on the end and a loop on the other to go over the big T screw and around the smaller one.
 
I'm very interested in this also. I would love to be able to get rid of the tree strap. I have already ordered me a few cranford tees. Pic would be awesome.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My guess is that he puts them about 6-8 inches on each side of where your tree strap would traditionally be attached to the tree. So instead of running the tree strap around the entire tree, he can run it from one step to the other. So it would be like a T with the sides of the T being a screw in step and the bottom of the T is his tree strap where his bridge would attach.
Just my guess though,

Thanks,
Boswell
 
This is what I could find on this site. Sounds like the placement of the second T is random.

I hook up by draping the lead strap over a Cranford deluxe screw in T, which is screwed in at about hair height. I then put the loop end of the lead strap (lead strap is permanently attached to the harness and the lead has the adjustable drape buckle on it) around a second Cranford midget T which is usually screwed in to the right side of my body (at whatever height and distance from my body it needs to be to be out of the way). Back to step one, the Cranford deluxe T I drape the lead over is screwed deep into the meat of the tree well past the wood threads and at a severe downward angle (about 45 degrees with the T part on the high end) so that the lead always remains pinched into the tree and can't slide outward towards the T end of the T-screw. The Cranford midget T is also screwed deep into the tree and at a slight upward angle because what little tension the lead will have on the midget T will be upward tension. Also on the Cranford deluxe T I cut off the nut and wrap electrical tape over the metal threads that are towards the T end so that the sharp threads don't over time, cut into my lead strap which will be draped over them.
Click to expand...

http://saddlehunter.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=193&p=2464&hilit=cranford#p2464
 
Still doesn't sit right with me.

Cranford tree steps not screwed in to the base are labeled a death trap but these T screws are considered safe?
 
BassBoysLLP said:
Still doesn't sit right with me.

Cranford tree steps not screwed in to the base are labeled a death trap but these T screws are considered safe?
Click to expand...


Tree steps are working in a different manner. Your holding them horizontal by the threads and if the radius where the shank and step meet isnt touching the tree, your applying a huge bending load at the thread to shank area. With the T screw your strap is pulling itself in closer to the V created by the angled T screw and the tree. The load is trying to shear the T screw and or crush the wood below it. Totally different loading in my NON PROFESSIONAL OPINION.
 
My non professional opinion agrees with your rationale. I've just seen these steps break outside the radius. Usually at a point where the threads start. That is my concern.
 
BassBoysLLP said:
My non professional opinion agrees with your rationale. I've just seen these steps break outside the radius. Usually at a point where the threads start. That is my concern.
Click to expand...

Threads have undercuts which are high stress areas, so any bending could cause cracking. If for example we were talking an eye bolt and there were some threads exposed, if it was going to fail, it would be where the first thread or 2 at the face of the tree. John clearly states that he burrys the T screw past the thread. I think he does that more for strap protection, but maybe not. He does say he cuts the nut off the main T screw, so it sounds like there are smaller threads exposed in that area.
 
aa46e3b4c33ed61c8332f6b21252e942.jpg




He would put the first T at about head height center of where he would intend to "sit" against the tree.

The second is about 8" to the right and 18" down.

You put your looped end around the lower T and then drape your lead around the upper T.
 
thanks for the pic. The second T is purely a safety back up, wonder why he uses a mini rather than 2 full size? Also by putting it that far from the first, any free fall is additional force on the mini. As John says, he doesn't recommend anybody copy him, but I'm just thinking out loud and weighing the options.
 
Also. I weigh about 210.

When he let me test the method in a soft tree, the T pulled out. So he recommended that I special order longer T's or just go with a normal lead rope.

This is definitely a Life and Death decision or health and paralysis question for each person. He weighs 160 or less and has clearly trusted his life with this for years. I am personally hesitant (and he was for me too). But this system is what makes his saddle set up unique. The rest of the saddle isn't much different that many that are shown on here.

I think it is worth pursuing and plan to have him make me up a saddle with his lead system. However, I will be drilling holes and using railroad spikes or something similar before I tie off like this 35 feet up.
 
Sounds like we are on the same page.

Honestly if I was ever desperate enough to do this I'd probably go with a pair of rock climbing anchors.

Good thread. I'm interested in seeing some pictures of guys using this method.
 
Yeah me too. It's interesting, but I'm not sure I'm ready to strap to tree like that. I would like to see some pics and read what you say once you've done it this way

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I'm not sure why I'm even considering this method, I get nervous looking at my 7/16' blue water assualt line. Lol
 
It was a poplar. It was Thanksgiving Day after we prepped some trees and dinner was almost ready.

We were just in my back yard demo'ing his saddle set up. So we only hand tightened. I don't want to scare anyone off. But it is a real concern and he shares it too. I'm confident that a 1/2" rail road spike, drill a hole and pound it in... will hold me no problem. I will save this for next season so I can test it. I have a buddy just over 300 lbs. I will have him in a saddle at ground level trying to rip it out with his weight. If it works, I will be willing to do it. It opens up so many options and takes away so many of the issues I am currently working thru with my Web.
 
Cbigbear said:
What are the benefits of the T method vs tree tether?
Click to expand...

John says that he could hang on the side of a flat wall if he needed to. So if you needed to hang in a huge tree and you didn't have enough rope this would work.


But for anyone looking to save weight I don't think this is the solution, you would have to carry the 2 t screws instead of more rope.
 
redsquirrel said:
But for anyone looking to save weight I don't think this is the solution, you would have to carry the 2 t screws instead of more rope.
Click to expand...

You would ideally have the T's in the tree prior to walking in on the hunt. However, then you would also want to carry a back up. And rope doesn't weigh that much. This is definitely not about weight.

I think anyone considering this method should hook up at ground level in their back yard. Screw in two Ameristeps in place of the T's. Test it out. I will demo how I would test this when I have day light. Maybe recreate it inside if there is enough interest. I'm sure I haven't explained it well.
 
BassBoysLLP said:
Still doesn't sit right with me.

Cranford tree steps not screwed in to the base are labeled a death trap but these T screws are considered safe?
Click to expand...

As far as this method I don't think I'd be comfortable with it but it obviously works for John. No one said cranford steps are a death trap. I said that the screw in ameristeps that are not screwed in properly are a death trap. I know of many of this style of step breaking when not screwed in properly, and if it breaks while someone is halfway up a tree they better say a prayer.
 
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